There are several different ways to attach yarn while you are knitting. None of them are "right" or "wrong." But they fulfill different needs.

Tie a knot: One simple method is to just tie a knot joining the end of the used-up skein with the beginning of the new skein. The advantage of this join is that it is very secure and will not unravel later during repeated wearing and washing. The disadvantage is that you have to be careful to get the knot rested in the back of your work. It may, at some time, poke through the front and look tacky. It also creates a little bump (not good for the bottom of socks!), and it leaves two ends flapping around down there are the back of your work. Those ends will have to be worked in later (use a large needle and weave each end in as best you can). You can also choose to cut the ends off fairly close to the knot and just leave them. Many Andean type sweaters join all their colors with knots, and don't even bother to work in the ends.

Just start knitting: You can just start knitting with the new color, leaving both ends hanging on the back of your work, and come back to work them in later. This is not as secure as the knot, but will never pop through. If you do a good job of working the ends in later it will be nice and secure and invisible.

Double up: Knit with both the old yarn and the new yarn for a several stitches, then drop the old yarn and continue on with the new yarn. This is a great solution if you do not like working in the ends later. Knit at least six stitches, then clip the ends off short. The disadvantage to this method is that with a bulky yarn the 6 sts knit with the double yarn will make a bump in your knitting. It also cannot be used when changing colors.

Any of these methods can be done in the middle of the row or at the beginning or end of a row. The disadvantage of doing it in the middle of the row is that you may end up with a bump that can be seen. The disadvantage of doing it at the beginning of a row is that you may get a bumpy edge, and you also have to waste that last end of yarn because it will be a rare moment when you run out of yarn right at an edge.

You could also just get really really really long yarn and never have to join!!!

Connie Delaney

This is an ingenious technique that seems to have been discovered by Cat Bordi and Joyce Williams at about the same time. Two circular needles are used to knit a tube. The technique is simple, one half of the tube is worked off the points of one circular needle, and the other half rests on the band of the second, which has just enough bend to give the working needles the angle they need.

While not really faster than knitting with four double pointed needles, this technique is certainly less intimidating to the beginning sock knitter. It is also great for mittens, gloves, and even the top part of hats where the sts are coming together.

I have always liked knitting on double pointed needles, and never found them to be difficult. So, at first I had a hard time with the circular technique. Changing needles is a bit slower with the circular needles because you have to pull the working needle off the sts, slide the new needle into place, grab the back end of the new needle and position it to start knitting again.

At first this was a little frustrating for me, but after awhile my hands seemed to learn the new movements, and my speed increased. After finishing a couple of socks I have to say that, even though each needle change is slower, changes are done only half as many times as with double pointed needles, and it all comes out equal.

There are many other positive points for working tubes with circular needles. What I like best is that my work is so easy to put down, stick in a carry bag, and pick up again. I never have to worry about sts slipping off, or losing that loose needle.

It is very handy to have my sock "palette" divided in two sections for fancy patterns. Because sts are divided in half, the instep sts can be held on one needle, and heel/sole sts on the other.

Last, but not least, it is very easy to try your sock, mitten, or glove on for fit as you go. Simply slip all sts down the bendable cable on the circular needle, and put the sock on your foot. Trying on regularly as you go insures both a proper width to the sock (if you are willing to rip out one that isn't fitting right), and a perfect length for the toe.

So with all that praise for this new way of knitting--Let's get started!!

Knitting Pattern Website

What does a "Multiple of 17 sts plus 2" mean?

It means that there are always going to be two extra stitches at the end of the row to finish up the pattern. If you only repeat the pattern once across the row (like if you were knitting a swatch), you would be knitting over 19 stitches (17+2)

If you want to repeat the pattern across 5 times, you will need 87 sts --first you multiply 5 times 17, then add two.

If you want to repeat the pattern 15 times, you multiply 15 times 17, and then add two (257)

How about a "Multiple of 4 sts plus 1"?

It means the same thing. You repeat a multiple of 4 across the row, and then finish up with that last little stitch. The reason you are given this little math problem for each knitting stitch is so that you will cast on the right number of stitches.

Just thinking about it will drive your mind crazy. But if you take the time to knit up a few swatches you'll start to understand why this works. Many patterns, especially the more exotic lace patterns, need to close off the final edge so that they look nice.

Just try it, you'll see that it works.

A typical swatch is 20 stitches by 40 rows. But the bigger swatch you can make the better.

Also, it is usually best to use the same stitch in your swatch that you are going to be using in the piece. Like use the particular lace stitch, color st, etc. Or if it is plain stockinette st or garter st, use that.

Sometimes people like to knit swatches just to see what different stitches look like with different types of yarn. If you are really creative, you might find that you like to knit quite a few different swatches with different size needles to find the exact texture you are looking for in your garment. Smaller needles will make a tighter knit.

After knitting your swatch, if you really want to be accurate, you should wash and block it, and then measure.

Also, when you are measuring, count your number of stitches across several inches, and then divide back by that number of stitches. You could very well end up with a decimal number, which will give you a more accurate gauge.

But if you are in a hurry, and like to take risks - just knit a small, quick swatch, and measure it.